Ich kann es einfach nicht glauben!!! Ich habe den Supertext verfasst, quasi tagelang ueberarbeitet... Und jetzt funktioniert das copy und paste nicht, weil das Wordprogramm auf dem Laptop, das ich benutze, nicht angemeldet ist!!! Davon habe ich ja noch nie gehoert!!! Irgendwie soll das wohl nicht sein, dass ich momentan ausfuehrliche Blogs veroeffentliche. Aber, mir geht es sehr gut, Malawi ist klasse, der See wunderschoen und ich stecke wohl ein bisschen fest hier. Bin seit ein paar Tagen (ehrlich gesagt sein zwei Wochen) hier in Cape Maclear und geniesse es, mal nicht taeglich den Rucksack packen zu muessen. Soviel fuer heute, ich bin jetzt zu frustriert noch mal einen ganzen Text zu verfassen. Ach ja, und wie man sieht, habe ich mich zum Friseur gewagt. Und oben sieht man ein Foto, wo alles ziemlich normal aussieht. Eigentlich sind es ungefaehr drei Schnitte in einem, kommt drauf an, von welcher Seite man es ansieht. Und dabei war es eine Weisse aus Suedafrika, die die Haare geschnitten hat. Die Afrikaner haben ja verstaendlicherweise schwierigkeiten mit unseren Haaren. Aber fuer sie gab es eigentlich keine Entschuldigung. Naja, ist alles nicht so wichtig hier. Alles Liebe, ich hoffe euch geht es allen gut!

Impressionen aus Malawi

Sonntagsspaziergang - mit Kind oder mit Holzstoss ;-)

Transportwege...

Ich bin dort, in Mulanje, auch imer viel mit dem Fahrrad mit gefahren. Fuer ein paar Cent konnte man sich so naemlich gut von einem Stadtteil zum anderen bewegen. Damit habe ich meinen Beitrag geleistet um die Wirtschaft des Landes anzukurbeln. Und bei der Hitze war das allemal angenehm. Ich wurde allerdings dann nicht so aufgeschnuert wie die Ziege, nur zur Info ;-) Malawi ist ein wunderschoenes Land, sehr huegelig und gruen, und das sogar jetzt, vor Einsetzen der Regenzeit. Das Klima war zunaechst unertraeglich heiss, aber seit ich in Blantyre bin ist es wieder angenehm frisch, und trotzdem sommerlich warm. In Mulanje war es so heiss, dass ich staendig klatschnass war und einmal sogar Fieber gemessen habe, weil ich ueberzeugt war, dass ich jetzt Malaria habe! War natuerlich nix, ich bin einfach manchmal ein bisschen hysterisch. Hier in Blantyre habe ich gleich zu Beginn Felix Starker kennen gelernt, der ein Haus fuer Strassenkinder aufgebaut hat, was mich natuerlich sehr interessiert. Also bin ich gleich mit ihm dort hin. Heute abend sind wir dort eingeladen und werden mit den 16 Kindern und ihren Hauseltern zu Abend essen. Ich freue mich schon drauf. Der Hausvater heisst Godknows (!) und ist haupt- oder nebenberuflich Schneider und ich werde ihm jetzt eine Art Naehmaschine kaufen (ich glaube, es ist eine Umsaeumungsmaschine, aber davon verstehe ich ja nichts). Mit dieser Maschine kann er noch bessere Kleidung oder Vorhaenge anfertigen und damit etwas Geld nebenher verdienen. Also geht die zweite Haelfte des Geldes, was ich auf dem Sommerfestflohmarkt gesammelt habe jetzt an diese Initiative. Wen es mehr interessiert, schaut doch mal nach unter: steka-malawi.blogspot.com oder googled einfach seinen Namen. Hier einfach nur ein paar Bilder, die ich dort geschossen habe. Fuer mehr Bilder reicht jetzt leider die Zeit hier nicht. Es dauerte etwa eine Stunde diese Bilder hier zu laden...

Pics from Mozambique...

Auch wenn ich euch schon viel ueber Mosambik berichtet habe, moechte ich doch auch noch ein paar Bilder zeigen, weil es dort einfach zu schoen ist.

Ich ganz ungeschminkt...

Vor allem hat Mosambik traumhaft Straende und tuerkisblaues oder auch stahlblaues Wasser. Im Gegensatz zu der Zeit Anfang September im Sueden Mozambiques, war das Wasser im Norden jetzt fast unangenehm warm. Das gilt besonders fuer die Strasse zwischen Mosambik und Madagaskar. Der Strand von Nacala (heisst glaub' ich Napala oder so, ich weiss es jetzt leider nicht mehr)

Ich lasse mich nicht so ohne weiteres im Bikini fotografieren!!!

Die Strandsaeuberer von Pemba fluechten schon um 9 Uhr frueh von der Sonne in den Schatten.... Und den gibt es nur unter dieser kleine Bruecke... Die Ilha de Mozambique ist eine jahrhunderte alte Siedlung die schon vor der Ankunft der Portugiesen existiert hat, dann lange auch eine zentrale Rolle im Sklavenhandel an der Ostkueste gespielt hat und jetzt allmaehlich verfaellt. Leider waren wir zu spaet fuer einen Besuch im Fort. Und dann war ich ja anderweitig beschaeftig (Polizei und so, wie nur gut unterrichtete Kreise wissen, so, und jetzt fragt mal huebsch alle nach!)

Irgendwo auf der Ilha...

Aber auch im Inland gibt es atemberaubend schoene Landschaften. Das Bild unten ist von dem Haeuschen aus gemacht, in dem ich drei Tage lang in Penha Longa an der Grenze zu Simbabwe gewohnt habe... Natuerlich koennen meine Bilder immer nur eine Auswahl sein. Aber ich hoffe, ihr bekommt einen Eindruck. Am Meer weht natuerlich auch immer ein angenehm frischer Wind. Trotzdem ist es im November extrem heiss (die Zeit vor der Regenzeit) und im Inland ist es dann fast nicht auszuhalten. Temperaturen von ueber 40 Grad sind die Regel. In Malawi wurde dass dann letztlich so schlimm, dass ich eines Nachmittags schweissgebadet aufgewacht bin und Fieber gemessen habe, weil ich ueberzeugt war, dass ich jetzt Malaria habe. Naja, es waren nur 37,0... Ich neige zur Theatralik, ich weiss. Hier seht ihr die Simbabwer, die kiloschwere Saecke kilometerlang durch den Wald und durch die Berge ueber die Grenze von Mosambik nach Malawi schleppen. In den Saecken ist Reis, oder Maismehl, manchmal vielleicht auch Zucker. Ich habe einer Frau (links) helfen wollen, aber nach ein paar Hundert Metern musste ich aufgeben...

Last update: Mozambique

I am actually right now again in Mozambique, I have spent more than two truly exciting weeks here (some incidents were almost too exciting!) and I made lots of lovely friends here as well. For the geography freaks among you: I travelled from Zim into Mozambique via Mutare and Manica, and from there to Chimoio. After a short interval in Beira (at the coast) I went back to Chimoio and from there into the mountains around Manica. We stayed at a beautiful house high in the mountains and had fantastic people looking after us. That is they carried loads of water for us to shower, wash up or flush the toilet. In the mornings they brought even hot water to shower. They did the cooking, the washing up, cleaned the house and took us for walks. And everything for 15 Euro per night. From there we went further north, via Inchope to Caia by Chapa (=minibus) and taxi. Then from Caia first by bicycle (we got a lift on the bicycle!!), then by ferry across the Zambesi and then by truck all the way up to Nampula. This time we sat on the front seats of the truck, but we also paid a good price. From Nampula I went further to Ilha de Mozambique, then to Nacala and eventually to Pemba, where were had again lovely days on a paradisaic beach. Now I am back in Nampula and I've got a lift to Malawi tomorrow. There would be so much more to tell about this time in Mozambique, actually, I could write a book about it, but I am now too tired, it is past 12:30 am and I still have to pack for tomorrow. So next time you'll hear about Malawi. Hope everybody is fine back home and it is not too cold. Here we have mostly 35-37 degree and I love it. Please, give some feedback if you find time!

Who wants me to continue in English?

I have been writing a few entries now in English and I must admit, that I feel rather clumsy, that I am lacking words and that I would find words so much more easily if I wrote in German. So my last appeal: I need to know if there are any readers of my block that appreciate actually my effort to write in English, so that I know if it is worth continuing. If I don't hear from you guys, then I will go back to German, because I think I can do better there... So, you want me to continue in English? Let me know!

Travelling through Zimbabwe II

Talking about names: Did I mention, that my guide's name in Matopo NP was Innocent? Innocent, Blessing, Mercy... and later I met Magnificent. Isn't that lovely? I think it says a lot about Zimbabweans. So, I took the bus to the Mozambician border a day later. But before I could do this, I had breakfast with Mercy. Which was nice and by 10 o'clock I sat on a minibus) this time even in front! But it took 90 minutes until the bus eventually left. It left before, but only to go once around the block, or to change position. There was a second similar minibus, from the same company, but they were competing for the passangers. So they tried to get in front or behind each other, I couldn't find out what was supposed to be better. When the bus eventually left, we drove safely, comparatively fast and without to many interruptions towards Mutare. Another reassuring point is that in Zimbabwe, they can only take as many people as they are seats. Unlike in Mozambique, where they stuff in as much people as they can. Whenever the bus stops, there will be loads of people coming to sell anything from fresh fruit to soft drinks, biscuits or nuts. I hardly ever buy soft drinks, but in Zim I got into buying this kind of soft drink - ice cream that we get at home too, in plastic tubes... Lovely in the heat. Or I buy fruit, that I than share with at least the driver, if not the whole bus. After about two thirds on the way to Mutare suddenly everybody left the bus and the driver politely asks me to move from this bus to the bigger bus, that had followed us since Masvingo. I was slightly irritated, but they said it wasn't worth continuing, because I was their only passenger now and because the price the told me was ok and the other bus was already pushing the accelerator, I agreed and hectically packed all my stuff. When I was on this big bus (75 seater) and had made my way to the back, sat down and relaxed I suddenly realised in panic, that I had left my sun glasses in the minibus. Again! So I ran to the driver's seat, telling them my problem, asking if we had gone far already (I had no idea). They said no, not far. So I asked if they could turn around and for a soft drink for each member of the crew they agreed. And here they went, this massive bus turned around on a rather narrow country lane to get back to fetch my sun glasses. And in the back of the bus there was a group of young guys going completely made... shouting, shaking their fists, and complaining. I didn't understand, because they spoke Shona, but I could guess, that they didn't like the fact that they were turning around to get my sun glasses. Back at the minibus which was fortunately still there, the driver jumped out and handed me the glasses as if he had been waiting for me. I hardly dared to go back on the bus and at first lingered in the front, when I was told to go to the back. The guys were still complaining loadly. They were so angry. But when I talked to them and asked them what the problem was, they made sure I understood that it had nothing to do with me (they were very nice actually), but that it was between them and the driver... Anyway, I liked it so much and I made so many friends there. And I met Rebecca there, who took me with her across the border and into Mozambique, to a kind of Zimbabwean refugee camp, where I could sleep on a straw mat for the equivalent of 0,30 Euro the night. Together with about 50 other Zimbabwean woman. We had a great time. Rebecca and I slept under my moskito net, in the other room they were singing all night, and I was taking pictures and got everybody's address to send the pictures... I didn't dare to say that it is highly unlikely that they will ever arrive, let alone that I will make it to send the pictures. But now I have around 20 addresses in Zimbabwe, where I am warmly welcome. I might need it sometime! I wish I could show some pictures.

Travelling through Zimbabwe I

The Great Zimbabwe Ruins (nach denen das Land auch benannt ist)

Mercy und ich, den Namen des anderen Maedchens habe ich leider vergessen...

So, as I've already mentionned, Mercy, the sweet girl from the reception in Masvingo offered to come with me to the ruins. So when I came to the reception early in the morning (around 7:30), she said, that she would come with me but that she would like to go home first, have a shower and get changed. But that this would be only 20 minutes. So I said ok, lets say 9 o'clock, I'll be ready... And at nine o'clock she wasn't there yet, but only half an hour later we could leave for the bus stop. Everybody who knows me well would know that I would never complain about half an hour! So at the bus stop, we got on an empty minibus, which is always ambivalent, because although you can choose the best seats, it means that you are going to wait until the bus is full, and this usually takes one hour or maybe two. While sitting there I found out, that we are on the bus to go to her place, so that she can do what she wanted to do... I was getting worried, because I still wanted to go further the same day to make it up to Mutare at the Mozambician border. I tried to convince her, that we go to the ruins first, and she agreed. On the way to the other bus stop (other direction, other bus stop) we met one of her friends (Blessing, mind the names!) and after an extensive conversation (I WAS GETTING WORRIED) he offered, that for a bit of petrol, around 12 US, he could take us there with his car (and back). I agreed, because it seemed to be a quicker option. But first we had to go to his brothers business, because it was actually his car... His brother wasn't there (obviously) and neither was his car. But thank God everybody has mobiles here, so he called him, and he said that he would be back in 30 minutes... (European minutes he said). Well, I took the opportunity to go back to the hotel to fetch some money... when I came back, the car was almost there and eventually one hour later we could leave. We went to the petrol station first, to take petrol. Makes sense. Then we went to some lovely township, or should I call it a suburb, and I found out, that we were going to Mercy's place. Fair enough! She got changed there and I had a lovely conversation with Blessing. When she came back, looking fresh and crisp, we hit the road again, it was getting really hot by that time, and we went to the petrol station again, because Mercy needed to change some money (rand into zim dollars). After that, we ended up in some campus (the technical college) and when I dared to ask, I was told that we are picking up Blessing's wife's younger sister. Fair enough, she wanted to join us for the outing... And then we went to the ruins, and we arrived there around 12:30. I had been ready at 8 o'clock, but it took eventually 4 and a half hours to get there. That was a long story... and I could tell you the way back as well (lots of stops, turn arounds, changing of cars, because other friends contacted us and picked us up, more stops and turn arounds, we hardly made it before sunset. But it was fun!!! Why I am telling you that? Because this is how travelling works here. You need time, and above all, don't rush people, don't push them. They will do anything you want, but at their speed and in their time. I love it. At some point I just decided that I will continue my trip the next day and then everything was fine. Oh yes, and the ruins where beautiful and impressive. They are actually medieval ruins of fortresses that the so-called Bantu people built at that time. They do look similar to the ruins of our medieval castles. Again, unfortunately no pictures... but you can google it, if you want.

Zimbabwe

Passengers on the truck to Masvingo...

As I promised ages ago, I want to tell you about my trip through Zimbabwe, which was actually the highlight of my trip so far. We have arrived by Overland Truck in Victoria Falls on October 23. The visit to the falls of the mighty Zambesi was impressive but even there you could sense the crisis the country actually experiences right now: besides our group there was only a handful of other tourists. And around the fence of the National Park there were people trying desperately to sell crafts to us, or to trade anything, even if it were just our empty water bottles. The small shops around the NP had just a dozen postcards and a couple of softdrinks lined up... it was difficult to judge which shop to go to to buy the two postcards for our two guides... Who do you choose? The supermarkets, though big and according to Western standards, are empty. Only a few shelves are filled, mostly just in the first row... and only which goods that can last a while. It was heart breaking. On my last day in Vic Falls I found a lovely guide (King George) who volunteered to show me around. We went to the local market, to his township, the football stadium and he didn't even want any money. He was just nice, friendly and interested. I gave him one of my sleeping bags in the end.

My two friends on the nights train to Bulawayo: Kimoyo and Ella

From Vic Falls I took the night train to Bulawayo and from there I went by truck (you sit on the back of the truck with at least 20 other people, it can be up to 50, but then everybody is standing, and that happens rather in Mozambique, not so much in Zimbabwe, where road restriction are more severe) up to Masvingo near the Great Zimbabwe ruins. Again I could make friend with lovely, friendly Joe, who went the same way and because he looked reassuring I asked him if he could take me along. Because actually, it works this way. Somebody nice might drop you at a petrol station indicating, that this is where you might find transport. Then there are touts which promise to look after you and find a lift. My tout looked rather dubious and anyway first wanted me to invite him to come to Germany (???) and when he realise that I wasn´t prepared for that, he kind of lost interest and was´t seen anymore. Only when Joe had found the truck for us, he suddenly reappeared and wanted money. I gave him the dollar for doing nothing, but he wanted two! And then we sat for about for hours on the back of the truck, people got on and off, they looked at me curiously because obviously I was the only white person and there aren't any tourists around anyway. But everybody is always friendly and welcoming, I felt safer than ever. They offered me to taste their local beer (dubious stuff, needs courage to taste it) and I shared water and oranges with them.

More pics from the trip to Masvingo

I arrived in Masvingo at dawn and immediately there was a volunteer to walk me to the hotel where I wanted to stay. There, after a bit of negotiating they accepted to have me paying with Zim Dollars, which is usually half the price from foreign currency. And then the security walked me to a restaurant, waited there until I had finished and brought me home. The girl at the reception had promised to find out something for me how to visit the Great Zimbabwe Ruins and when I came back she offered to go there with me the next morning. But that's a different story. Eventually I stayed in Masvingo for two nights and then took a bus to Mutare near the border to Mozambique. And that's another story. To sum it all up: Zimbabwe was such a nice experience and people there seem to be angels. It is incredible to see how they take the difficult situation at the moment. And the situation is extremely difficult. People suffer, there is nothing in the shops and therefore there is nothing to eat. Due to inflation their salaries are down to a few US dollars only. Recently university professors put down their work because they cannot live from it anymore. The same happens in schools. You can't survive on a salary of 15 US, so they are leaving the country trying to find work elsewhere. So-called brain drain is a big issue in Zimbabwe. All the capable people are leaving the country, and they are not to blame. Zimbabweans have actually touched my heart and I can't forget about their fate although it's been two weeks now that I have been there. I have never made so many friends in such a short time and hardly ever felt so well looked after. So I am actually thinking about what to do to help. I don't have a clue yet, but the first ideas are popping up. I'll keep you updated. So far for now, I hope to find more time later this evening to continue with my stories. Yes, and sorry, again no pics. I tried so often, but they cannot be uploaded here, the connection is too slow.

Here I go again...

Ok, ok, ok... Do you remember the time when it took about 5 Minutes to set up the computer? And then it took another 5 minutes to connect to the internet? That is how it works here. And then the hour costs 3 to 5 dollars to use the internet... Quite nerv-wrecking sometimes. Let alone the frequent power cuts and then there are places which do not have internet at all. And in most places it is nearly impossible to upload pictures. And the keyboards are different everywhere. And even here I am now in a private home, I have unlimited access to the computer and I've spent hours already for nothing, just trying to upload pictures... Ok, enough complaints, but this is just to explain, why I haven't updated for such a long time. I am back in Mosambik, in Nampula, quite far up north actually, and I am going further north tomorrow. Right now I am staying at a lovely Swedish friend's house. She actually rescued me in a very ackward situation (my guardian angel, no more details) and I have stayed here for two nights, met other friends of hers and so got a lift to go to Ilha de Mozambique tomorrow.